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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 12:37 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 5:56 pm
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Location: TEXAS
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Finally rebuilding the front end of my Dart and I have noticed a few discrepancy's? :shock:

First) The Lower Control Arm Pins are different on the 1975 than on the 1964? Old uses a cotter pin and new(er) does not? (see pics)

Image
NEW

Image
OLD
Should I just drill a hole and use the castle nut & cotter pin?

Second) How in the world are you supposed to tighten the New lower control arm bumper? (I cut the old one off) Deep socket will not fit!
Any suggestions appreciated!

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 12:41 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
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Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
1. A self-locking nut replaced the cotter-pin.

2. Never had that issue, sorry.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 2:20 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Self Locking nut? so does it need to be replaced after use? The nut that came off the parts car does not seem like anything special. :?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 2:45 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Portland-ish
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Isn't the nut beveled on one side? Or does it have little dots on the flanks?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 2:53 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Yes, it does have a slight bevel to one side, but no dots. Is locktite ok to use here?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
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Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
Danarchy; are you familiar with what's called "Nylock" nuts? One side has an extra area for a nylon washer, that when screwed onto your bolt/stud, gets threaded by the same threading engagement. It has the effect of a locking device. In your pic of the new pin, it appears that the nut is a nylok-type nut.
If you go to get new locknuts, I implore you to NOT use pinch-lok type nuts. They are one-time use only, and damage your threads when you put them on and take them off.

Roger


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 8:30 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: TEXAS
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Roger - I am familiar with Nylocks nuts, the one in the picture with the New control arm is not a Nylock. What should I be looking for? I was Very Surprised when I took the old one off and it had a castle nut, I would probably feel better if the new one was also. Is there any reason I shouldn't drill a hole and use a castle nut and cotter pin?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 8:36 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
How about a jam nut?

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 12:39 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: TEXAS
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O.K., I went down to Fastenal and bought a couple of different nuts. One similar to the original on the New arm and the other a Nylock.
The Nylock is a bit larger,but will catch threads fully on the nylon.
Jam Nut? NOT use pinch-lok type nut? Different people call things by different names, can you post a picture?-Thanks
NOT use pinch-lok type nut
Image

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Last edited by Danarchy on Tue Nov 24, 2015 2:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 1:53 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Jam nut = second nut against primary nut; usually thinner, but doesn't have to be

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 2:17 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 5:56 pm
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Location: TEXAS
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:lol: Thanks Ed! Makes perfect sense now.

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