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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 9:47 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13125
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
Ok.... I got it done but im to tired to post pics or go in details. I will update tomorrow......
Please do! My 76 D100 makes all kinds of noise in the front end, so any pictures and details about working on the front end interest me.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2015 6:03 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2015 12:40 am
Posts: 351
Location: Castle Rock
Car Model:
Well here I go.
Its was a cold night....And the morning wasent much better.
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I got a used spindle from a wrecking yard for $20.
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After using a pickle fork, a 5Lb sledge hammer, and "some finesse" I got the old spindle off in one piece.
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I did support the coil with my floor jack to break the ball joints loose. However the top of the coil is not connected to the upper a arm so I dont think you NEED to do this. But it dose help take the pressure off the top ball joint when you break it loose. When you go to knock them loose make sure to leave the nuts on when you do. If you dont the spindle will fly off at ya. :roll:
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Side by side comparison. The one on the left is the old unit.
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I forgot to take pics of the new ball joints I put in. The upper one was threaded and the lower one was a press in style. On mine (1979) it had the option of either for the bottom joint so you got to look at it to see what one you have. If it is round where the grease fitting is its a press in style. If it is squared off then that is a threaded style. They were somewhat easy to install once i cleaned off all the old dried up grease. (look at the ground)
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The new hub/rotor assembly. New bearings grease and retaining nut.
I went by my FSM for installing the bearings. After you assemble everything it says to spin the hub forward while torquing the nut to 20LBs. After this it says to back the nut off 1/4 turn. Then ONLY USING YOUR HAND tighten up the nut as far as you can. Make sure not to use any type of tool ( I wonder if gloves count?) Thin its just a matter of putting on the castle nut and cotter pin.
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I reused the old caliper for the piston seal was still soft and not cracked. I did replace the pads though for mine had 50% left and I was using new rotors. I made sure to put disk break quiet on all the moving/rubbing parts. I also used new hardware for the calipers.

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~Nic
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2015 7:11 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13125
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Nice work!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:05 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3830
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
you did good !

do you have plans to freshen up the driver side bearing and brake pads?

then you will be good to go for quite some time :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 4:57 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2015 12:40 am
Posts: 351
Location: Castle Rock
Car Model:
Quote:
you did good !

do you have plans to freshen up the driver side bearing and brake pads?

then you will be good to go for quite some time :)
I did everything to the drivers side as well minus replacing the spindle.

_________________
~Nic
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