Good to know it works diluted. I am going to give it a try soon.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

I second Killer6's dilution story, I took two gallons and diluted to about 50 gallons with water and soaked my whole K-frame in a big tub. It takes a little longer, but works the same, completely removes all the rust.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... rt=3&o=307

Parts go in like this: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... rt=3&o=335

And come out like this: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... rt=3&o=333

brian

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Cool. Thanks for the results, folks.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Those look amazing. I'm definitely going to do that with my suspension pieces. Possibly my exhaust manifolds too, then get them coated pronto.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

While it does work somewhat diluted, albeit a tad slower, I was stating
that I set sealed containers full of water in the bucket to displace airspace.
That allows you to use much less solution to cover the piece.

NOTE: if you leave evaporust on the part and let it dry it may turn dark, but that is a passivation layer only, it comes off if you scrub it. I discovered this when I was soaking some spindles and part of the spindle was sticking out of the solution (cause I was soaking rims underneath it). The area that had evaporust on it that was exposed to air turned dark, but I took some 0000 steel wool and it came off.

I've found the best way is to make sure the part is completely submerged, and when you take it out, rinse it immediately and dry it. No worries.

FYI,

Brian

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In hot water, which makes dry-off a lot faster and more complete.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I usually hit the part with a heat gun to dry it off, but hot water is a good choice as well. I don't see any flash (rust) layers for that reason, good point.

brian

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If the engine is still in the vehicle and driveable, use oxalic acid to remove the rust. Oxalic acid will not remove solder bloom; a different product is needed for that. Prestone used to have a "heavy duty" radiator cleaner; the acid part was oxalic acid and the neutralizer was sodium carbonate (a/k/a washing soda). I picked up a 50 pound sack of oxalic acid a few years ago. If anyone needs some, PM me.

Ken

The bulk of it came out with a good pressure washing. It's too cold right now to work on it, but I think the evaporust will take care of things. This engine has cured me of ever using just straight water!

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.