Your call. Your car, your barbeque! They are a reputable company, if they strip, check and guarantee them and I had a person I can speak to with any issues I’d be curious to try them. They stand by their product.Like I said, I have NOS as preference, but they will dry up...

Hi Everyone,

recently had a carb issue on my 65 cuda. Would crank and crank but not fire. Add fuel directly into the carb with air cleaner removed and the engine runs fine. Ordered the carb kit from http://www.daytonaparts.com (thanks SlantSixDan) and while getting ready to install it found that an opening in the bottom of the bowl was "plugged" with a pin and epoxy on the outside? Pic attached, See 6:00 position).

Is this a common occurrence with these carbs? is there a better way to patch this hole? Braze maybe? Set screw?

Thanks!

That hole isn't meant to be plugged. It's supposed to be there, and open. That's the breather hole for the back side of the accelerator pump diaphragm. All that passes through it is air.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks SlantSixDan. You've helped so much on my car! It's clear that I'm a new at this Carb rebuild job. As mentioned, I have the kit from your recommended source. I downloaded the manual at the link you've posted. Anything else to watch out for during the rebuild of these carbs?

I am also tackling the exhaust manifold gasket with the Remflex 6008 gasket. Manufacturer recommends 5-7 foot-lbs to get the 50% crush. Seems really light torque, does that level of torque last in your experience?

Thank you again!

You're welcome! Yup, follow that torque recommendation. Stock gaskets use only 10 lb·ft, and the Remflex gaskets are a lot softer and thicker, so they use less. Resist the temptation to use more "just to be sure"; that's the wrong thing to do.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Will do... thanks

I've got a leaky idle adjustment screw, is it just to far out or do I need a cork/rubber gasket to fix this? Idles just fine. May be a dumb question,but I'll own it as there is no mention of such in the 1920 manual,but they sell these universal gaskets at the local parts store(s).

There is nothing such as an idle needle gasket. I've sealed loose/sloppy idle needles with teflon tape on the threads. Not an officially correct procedure, but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan, I'll give it a shot.

this needs to be made a "sticky"

As I've seen in this thread remanufactured carbs are usually a step in the wrong direction, and for good reasons. The carb I have (other than the annoying leaky bowl I plan to fix with a doubled or thicker gasket )works ok for now. Considering the fact that the 1920 Holley is becoming more obsolete I'm thinking about getting one(remanufactured, for when not if mine wears out), at least I would have a shot at a diy rebuild if it doesn't work properly. The biggest concern at this point is in the picture I've attached; is it a minor casting flaw or crack? Any thoughts?

Crack or flaw, that carb has been sandblasted, which means the passivation coating is gone, which means it will sooner than later be a useless lump of powdery white "metal mould" corrosion.

One cannot undo the badness of "remanufacturing" by taking the carb back apart and putting a kit in it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.