I'd go .0025-.003" myself. I'd also shoot for that on the rods.

To open them up you can either have the crank polished or carefully sand the backs of the bearing shells. I used Scothbrite on the last set I had to diddle with.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I usually shoot for 0.018 - 0.0022" on mains and rods, maybe a skosh more on the rods.

Great tip on the sanding of the bearing shell backs, Dennis! I have gotten mine polished 0.0005" when I needed to...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

3/17/20
Well I finally got back to work on setting up this engine this week.

I bought a Dial Bore Gauge as well as a connecting rod Vise - Those tools will hopefully help to make my engine building more consistent and predictable. I Believe that I don't know how to use the T Gauge set properly or there is some other error in my measurements when using it. The Dial Bore gauge reads to half a thou and It was dead on every time a took a measurement.. so that is helpful.

I got the Rods and mains Dialed in - Used the Technique that Dennis Described - Thank you! it helped a lot. I was careful to clean the backs of the bearing shells with brake cleaner after knocking those few 10 thousandths off the back.. Bob is the oil guy has terrible things to say about scotchbrite media getting in your engine.

So After remeasuring with a Micrometer on the Crank and with the Dial Bore indicator inside the Bearings I had to Make More room in 2 Rods and 2 Mains. The rest were in the Ballpark of what I wanted to see in the clearances. (thanks Lou and Dennis for your recommendations!)
I also got time to get the cam Degreed in.

Will Need to do some Clearancing on the edge of the head where the pushrods pass through - Maybe I get this thing buttoned up by the end of the week.
I will have a helper with me most everyday due to restrictions on schools / crowds!
She was learning how to read the degree wheel and a speed wrench today.



Cheers! Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Nice work, Greg and Ava. Keep it up and have fun!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Sweet!

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

3/24/20

Have been getting some more things done. Slowly but surely, Nothing amazing, but hope to be back to 2017 status when the car ran, drove, raced under it's own power, Before the Block cracked allowing coolant in the oil to wipe out the motor.

Some updates...
*Added a Oil Pressure cutoff switch.. Had to fiddle with running wires to a 5 pin relay as it's a NC Switch at 15 Or less. 16 PSI and above it's a NO Switch.
*After Adding that switch and a relay to trip the Ign Power Relay I also Put in an Arm switch for the Oil Pressure cut out circuit. - Car will start and run with the oil pressure cutout "disarmed" but After firing the switch needs to be flipped to "arm" the system so that in a low oil pressure situation the show comes to a halt.
* tested it and it works.. by turning off the fuel pump as the car started running lean the engine slowed and cut it's own Ignition due to Low oil Pressure... YAY.
*Redid some of the wiring for the Ign, start and run circuits.
*There is a more consistent Voltage on the Voltmeter with the Megasquirt and coils all running through a relay... my wiring was a bit hodgepodge before... Still is but it has better functionality now.
* Swapped out my Old Rusty MP 6 Into 1 Header that I had to seriously crush / peen the #6 Tube on to fit the Clifford manifold.
* Brian Droschak had a nice copy of the same header that had a little interaction with a conduit bender to solve that problem.
* Rebuilt the Carb.. it needed it after the 8 hour tow back home from Kentucky in 2018.. the Rain inundated the thing on the open trailer for 8 hours
*Swapped out the Oberg filter for a spin on type remote filter - It seems that the Oberg can get clogged somewhat quickly and when that happens causes erratic oil pressures.... The pleats in a good paper spin on filter should have many times more surface area, according to my crackpot math calculations.
* Installed the New Timing Trigger Mount that bolts onto the bottom of the water pump.... We'll have to see how it works in an actual racing situation... The old mount used to change it's clearances when it would get hot and was hard to fiddle with when the front end was installed on the car.

Pictorial:
Old Smashed Header on Tube #6






New Droschak Improved model installed!







Old Oberg Filter.. Cleanable Fine Mesh, Reusable.. But a Pain to clean and play with when changing oil.



New Remote Spin on Filter - We'll see if it performs better.. Will be easier / less messy on oil changes!



NC Under 15 PSI Switch installed down on the oil Pressure Port.



A shot of the Old Trigger Sensor Mount - made of steel and Bolted to probably the part of the the water pump most prone to temp. Fluctuations - Just in front of the Lower rad hose / pump scroll pocket inlet. (mock up of the new sensor Idea in Wood / Foam next to it.)



New Sensor Mount - 3 Set screws to adjust positioning and easier to access. Hopefully not as affected by water / block temperatures as much.. to keep the Air Gap more consistent.















Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Good stuff Greg!

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Impressive. I am betting your ign problems will be much attenuated or gone... Look forward to seeing the "Mad Max of the East, Beyond Slanterdome" ride again.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Greg, that is too purty. It needs some duct tape somewhere.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Looks uber-speedy to me.

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“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

Yes It has duct tape.. you just cant see it now.

The thing is still pretty raunchy.. I am not sure iff you have seen it up close in person.. it's bad.

Looks fast ... maybe.. goes fast....I am never confident in that until the results are proven.
lots of stuff to go bad / wrong / get figured out... especially when I am the lead mechanic, driver, crew chief and wallet.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I resemble that remark, except for the goes fast part. All else applies. My car photographs MUCH better than it actually looks..lol.

_________________
“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

That bracket looks super heavy - a clear dearth of holes.
I'm surprised that you would hang that much weight way out front like that, unless it's needed to keep the nose on the ground
That's it, isn't it?


Seriously though, nice work.
That turd is becoming highly polished indeed

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Yes its not too holey.. I didn't weigh it before the install either. It shouldn't be too heavy as it is AL. I should compare the FE Garbage to this AL one.. time to take the scale to the new shop digs.

I can always add holes easy.. to make Mark and Seymour proud! I did lighten up the oil pump mount.. I didn't really document that here. It needs to be skookum as it holds the heart of the engine. Some holey finite analysis still to be had!
No you can't polish a turd.. just add holes and make it faster.. Still A turd.. wouldn't have it any other way!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

nice! your mandrel drive bolt look smaller than stock, are you using a tread adaptor?