Very cool, Bill. Do you have a boost gauge on there that tells you what is the max boost?

Enjoy the driving...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hiya Lou, I do indeed have a boost gauge. I am consistently seeing 4-6 pounds, but only when I get the secondary open on my progressive Weber. I just don’t normally drive that way. I have seen as much as 10, when I was really hauling balls, but missed the RPMs. I still need a spotter to figure out that relationship.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

Any videos on this. I was looking at the blower set up from Aussie. Twice the price of the other.

I’m back. The TorqStorm supercharger is still amazing.
I either got a bad belt for my power steering mod or left it too loose, but the knobs started breaking off. Of course it is on the back pulley, so I had to pull everything apart. This prompted me to pull the ripcord for the smaller (3.25”) pulley on the supercharger and it helped enormously. Chris at TorqStorm sent me the new pulley and belt with very good installation instructions.
The Dodger still drives like a NA car when I want, but now the boost kicks in much sooner and feels great. I’m still not seeing a lot of boost (4-6 lbs) but it is happening without having to wind the engine up so much. I think that maybe the Weber 32/36 is too small, but I am going to look into having the secondary open sooner.
Added some pics of my custom ram air to the CAI. Not sure if it helps, but if it is good enough for a Hellcat, then its good enough for Rodger.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

Might want to look into something like this:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... RecID=6942

May interfere with choke linkage, not sure. Opens throttles at the same time and replaces the accelerator pump outlet with one from a 38 dgas so it squirts into both barrels.

Brandon

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https://www.flickr.com/photos/162600228@N03/

Wonderful! Thanks for the update. My engine and supercharger and sitting on the stand waiting for me to finish up a car...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hi OG, Thanks for the tip, but I still want the progressive. I don’t see an adjustment, just a tab that actuates the secondary. I think that I can fashion a jacket over the tab to move the secondary opening from a little after half pedal to just before half. I’ll include some pictures if the mod works.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

Well, I decided against modding the weber and decided to just give it more pedal when I wanted more go. And boy does it go. I’m just driving it around town though, so there is rarely a need to give it the goose.
But the one time that I did, I think that I’m running out of gas at high boost and RPM due to adding the smaller pulley and cheaping out by adding boost reference to the mechanical pump. The symptom was a steep drop off in power. Not sure if it was pre-detonation or just misfiring. Sorry, but again I cannot give exact numbers of boost, AFR, and RPM as things happened very quickly. Now I understand that it could be ignition related, but I’m going with my gut on this one.
So before I blow up the engine, I bit the bullet and got a Mallory 4309 (29387) boost referenced regulator and a Walbro GSL395 electric pump.
Gonna keep the feed 5/16” and add a 5/16” return. I was thinking of the newer sender plate with the built in return, but it is a 3/8” feed with a 1/4” return and all my research indicates that the return should be the same size as the feed or bigger, otherwise the regulator will not work properly. Even dropping the feed to 5/16” means that the return would still be constricted by the 1/4” on the plate.
Now I am leaning towards tapping a 5/16” nipple into the fill tube.
I look to the collective wisdom on this board to critique my plans and welcome all advice.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

I went ahead and did the fuel line mods. I even added a Ron Francis CR-92 collision switch with relay, just in case.
The results are smoother acceleration and no hiccups at high RPMs. Running new gas line was a pain, but guess what I found… Yep, a ding in the old line crimping it about half shut. Now I’m not so sure that I needed to upgrade. Hmmm.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

Well, well, well. It looks like it wasn’t the gas after all. Ran into the same high RPM, high boost stutter. Now I’m thinking it might be the total timing. Initial was at 5 degrees BTDC, so I set it back to 2.5 and the stutter appears to have disappeared, keyword “appears”.
I don't push the Dodger hard very often. Not really able to since I don’t hit the track and I live in the big city.
I’m going to look into determining total timing, and look closely at the mechanical advance springs, if the stutter comes back at higher RPM.
The upgraded fuel delivery system did get rid of the gas smell at shutdown and it does start easier now, Not sure it was worth the money and effort though.
But it is still a blast to drive and all of this learning is going to help when I get my TorqStorm for my 1966 D100, yeehaw,
Happy Independence Day everybody!!!!

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

Sounds good, Bill. You definitely want to know what the total timing is at 3000+ RPM with vac adv unplugged. I would not run it past 30 deg with your application, probably more like 28. With almost all distributors, this will require shortening the mech adv slots inside the dist.

Happy driving and tuning!
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I will conclude this thread with my dunderhead moves and create a new one for my 66 D100 Torqstorm upgrade.
I will reiterate that this is not a race setup. I only cruise around to pubs and such.
Upgraded to dual master cylinder and left 1/4” line to front brakes with an adapter at the master/ proportioning valve. I can confirm that this leads to spongy brakes which I attributed to the new vacuum assist. Changed to 3/16” line with adapter at distribution block and pedal feels much nicer.
No PCV outlet on new carby setup. I used the 6th rail plug, but found a post by SlantSixDan that indicated this is bad. I tapped a nipple into the adapter and ran the PCV hose there with the brake assist, boost gauge and BOV hoses going to the sixth rail nipple.
I didn’t fully read the electric fan installation manual, who does? Anyways, I missed the bit about reversing the blades if changing from puller to pusher. Easily done once the fan was removed and it is much quieter and probably more efficient.

_________________
Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

I spiffed up the Dart a bit by adding a fan shroud, which helps keep it cool at idle. Also, I added a distributor advance limiter from FBO Ignition Systems. I have read that the magic number of 28 degrees total timing is a good place to be on a supercharged Slant 6. I set the initial timing so that the engine is running its best at idle. This turns out to be 10 degrees BTDC. Based on this, I chose the 14 degree slot on the plate. This is because I have read that a slant six is about 2 degrees further advanced than what is stamped on the plate and therefore will give me a total timing of 26 degrees. A little less is better, because too much causes pre-detonation and will damage the engine. Checking the timing seems to bear this out and the Dart runs better and starts easier with this setup. I got my TorqStorm for my D100 and will just highlight what I did the same vs different from the Dart. Same:
Manifolds heads and block are all stock 1966 single barrel slant 6

Ordered the supercharger with the smallest pulley 3.5 to get boost at the lowest rpm.

Plumbed in a custom CAI enclosure with 3.5" tubing and K&N filter. That is my first attempt. After drinking the brain lubrication I decided to relocate the battery to the frame and reduce all the plumbing, which is what I have now. The cover, made from PALight Foamed PVC, is removable for cleaning the filter. Used colder plugs as recommended by TorqStorm

Added Slant6Dan headlight relay setup

Mostly Same:

Used a Weber 32/36 DGV carburetor with an adapter to the single barrel stock manifold. Tapped a nipple in the adapter to feed the PCV.  Jets - Primary air 160->145, left the Main at 145, Secondary air left at 170, Main 150->200. Manual choke since I had the linkage. The choke is only used for fast idle and the electric on my Dart sometimes went off fast idle too soon maybe I  need a resistor.

Used the 1974 Mopar electronic ignition system blue instead of orange. Seems fine, so I changed the Dart to blue and am keeping the orange as a spare.

Left 24" from exhaust flange of 2" down pipe connected to manifold. Put AFR 18" from flange. Upgraded the exhaust to 2.5" starting 24" from flange all the way back through turbo muffler.

No room for mechanical fan. Added dual 12" push fans with custom bracket and used Dakota Digital fan controller and temperature sensor. Awesome product controlled by phone app that allows custom on/off temperatures for each fan and timed use after turning off key. More features are available if there is an ECU.

Different:

D100 is 3 on the tree. It appears that the Dart automatic  torque converter helps reduce the blowoff valve activity while decelerating. Added Uni foam sock over blowoff valve as recommended by TorqStorm to make life bearable while going downhill.

Did the nipple on the fuel pump atmospheric port to hat simulating boost referenced regulator. Added an electric fuel pressure gauge to keep track and so far so good.

Used the hat provided by TorqStorm

Upgraded voltage regulator to vr128.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

It seems like at least a 2 barrel manifold would help the operationa lot? I imagine the 1 barrel adapter is a pretty good restriction?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Hi Rick,
I have read about that and it I have been wondering about it for awhile. Just spitballing here, but while it stands to reason that the adapter is a restriction, it could also create a Venturi Effect and therefore may be beneficial. I have also been wondering what the difference in the size is of the openings between a 1 barrel and a 2 barrel manifold. It looks like the 1 barrel opening is much bigger, so maybe the area is somewhat equal to the 2 smaller openings. Since my setup is for street, I rarely run it wide open anyways. The primary 32mm on the Weber is small and the additional 36mm only opens after approximately half throttle. Seems to have plenty of giddy-up and go and is very smooth when cruising with a steady idle. The blower is really the key here to getting that little extra juice.
I think that headers would be necessary before really worrying about the intake size anyways. And then of course EFI, even TBI would have a large impact after that. Of course the ignition would need to be beefed up as well. So for a mostly stock Slant 6 I am very happy with the result.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.