Hey all, Dodge newbie here! I bought a '69 D200 with a slant 6 225 on a whim a couple weeks ago. It looks good from 10ft and ran well enough that I figured it couldn't be too much of a project to make a nice weekend cruiser or summer daily. Well, fast forward a week and I'm realizing it's running REALLY hot all the time and I can't get the timing to stabilize, and it's got a bad off idle stumble. Turns out the OE radiator was nearly fully plugged and limed up, so I've got one on order.

Started doing research and I see the timing chain slack is a common issue for jumpy timing, so since the radiator's out and I've got a wobbly dampener anyway, I pulled the front of the motor off and I definitely have a loose timing chain. Worse, it looks really dry... it's definitely NOT been getting oiled for.... a while. On the Sweptline Facebook group, a helpful member there pointed me to http://www.plymouthcarclub.com/2015/12/ ... in-oiling/ describing how the original bearings had a chamfer to provide oiling at the crank, with an alternate solution of custom drilling a galley plug.

My primary question at this point is... if I am removing the #1 bearing cap to inspect/clean out that chamfer, and find the upper bearing DOESN'T have the chamfer, is there a technical/engineering reason to not put the chamfer on the LOWER bearing cap since I've got it off anyway? (ref: blue circle in attached photo). I fully admit I'm not an engineer, but I have a fair amount of common sense and this seems (particularly given the tiny surface area being affected), like it couldn't have any real negative side effect, and prevents the need to take the crank out of the motor!

As I get these wear items done and the engine back together, I'm sure I'll have lots more questions. This truck is definitely teaching me a lot, but something about inline 6's just draws me in (my other project is a '54 Chev 3600 with a 235). Can't wait to get this one on the road!

Video of timing chain slack (and can see it's dry): https://photos.app.goo.gl/6uWVRz5FBf9xBjyA7

Here's the truck in question, as all threads need pics =0]

I wouldn't think it would create a problem.
I've always used the drilled plug solution, but in the end, it'll accomplish the same thing.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

That is a really sharp truck!

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this post. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Also worth seeing this thread.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That's some good reading! I just got the FSM in the mail today so I've got good reference there too.

I appreciate all the comprehensive information. It'll definitely take me a bit to soak all that up but it'll be beneficial I'm sure.

While this will just be a pleasure truck, I always have the itch to "build". I've been reading some cam and carb threads. I would sorta like to plan long term to do a cam/carb/dutra duals. I haven't tested compression yet, but it doesn't show any signs of having issues there. Once I get my new gaskets and timing components I am going to check valves and see where I'm at on distributor curve.

See HEI upgrade, too. Dutra Duals are terrific; good exhaust system recipe is 2" pipe off each of the Dutra manifolds (do Dutra Duals, not Dual Dutra Duals), join those two 2" pipes into one 2.5" pipe with this collector, and run 2-1/4" pipe into this late-model Hemi Ram muffler (big, free-flowing, quiet, stainless steel). Appropriate tailpipe dumping out at the right rear corner of the truck, spout angled outward between 30° and 90° and downward between 30° and 45°.

It will also be a good idea to service the oil pressure relief valve to make sure it's doing its job, as described in these two threads: thread 1, thread 2.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The top bearing insert has the oil feed groove and the bearing's locating tab, facing forward so it is just easier to add the chamfer to that bearing half when the bearings are not installed.
There is no reason why you can not add this oil pathway to lower bearing half but just go forward with the chamfer, from where the top oil groove meets it. (just chamfer 1/2 of the edge, away from the tab)

It is also a good idea to drill a small hole through the top timing sprocket to let oil exit from the front cam bearing to the front of the sprocket and be sure to use an oil slinger.

The #1 tip... degree-in the new timing set and add 2 degrees of cam advance.
DD

That is a nice looky Swepty. I have a '61 D100.

Understood on the chamfer being only the front half! Definitely cautious wherever affecting oil pressure is a factor.

I'm not quite sure I follow on the top timing sprocket hole. I don't see any spot (other than the oil galley plug) where oil could be supplied up there. Is there a picture or 'tech tip' somewhere?

I did not buy the multiple-keyway crank gear, so how do I adjust cam timing? Are there adjustable/slotted cam gears available? I'm an utter newbie to this level of tuning. I can't picture how I'd adjust cam timing with a standard timing set outside of minor tweaks with an offset key. I can't find the JP double roller in stock anywhere, so I just ordered a standard cloyes set from rockauto for now.
Thanks! To be honest I'm primarily a Ford guy when it comes to my daily drivers, but this truck is seriously growing on me.

oil slinger

https://www.manciniracing.com/slan6brbandh2.html

installed

https://www.google.com/search?q=slant+s ... i9xlcMh7NM

and that is a nice looking truck!

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Thanks for that. I do have that slinger piece on my motor. Where is the hole intended to be drilled in the upper sprocket, though? I still can't picture how that's supposed to work.

Oil bleeds-out of the front cam bearing and builds some pressure behind the top timing sprocket.

Drill a small hole from the inner edge of the "cup", on the back of the sprocket, to the front face of the sprocket.
This directs some of that oil out to the front of the sprocket where it can be thrown around. Doing this also reduces the chance that pressure behind the top sprocket will push the sprocket / cam assembly forward.

Some top sprockets already have this feature but add it if a passage is not there.
Basically, this is just another way to get more oil onto the sprocket teeth and chain.
DD

Ahh, I follow now. Will do that when I put the new set on.

I also think I get how to degree the cam with a "nonadjustable" timing set using the offset keys. Hopefully I can follow those steps and figure that all out. I do have a dial gauge. Just need to get a 14mm piston stop I guess to find TDC with a degree wheel.

FedEx has delayed/lost several packages of parts now, so hopefully I can get to it this week...

So I took the #1 cap off this evening and found no chamfer on any of the main bearing edges. I placed a small chamfer on the lower bearing as previously discussed (yes I cleaned up the shavings!) And retorqued the main bearing. Crank still spins nicely. Now the question is... When I fire this up the first time, is there any reason I must install the timing cover? I'd like to actually see if the oiling is working... Or not... Before I button it all up.

My new radiator and the other various gaskets and parts got here finally as well so my goal is to get the timing set installed and hopefully degreed (though I'm not willing to pull the head at this point, so not sure how doable that is) and then see if I can get it to hold solid timing. At this point I'd settle for running decently without overheating. I'll worry about making it hotter later on. I've been doing some reading and I like the idea of doing some mild breathing modifications over the winter. Will see if the budget agrees... Got a lot of irons in the fire at the moment.

Well, the truck is all back together and I made a first attempt at setting the valves with the engine running. I'm guessing there's a bit of learned feel to this process. I basically just set them so that as the valves topped out, I could just move the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker arm. My motor doesn't seem to splash that much oil around. I think I got them close.

I set the timing and had to sit back and look at what I was working with for a bit. I discovered the "under bolt" on the distributor had been maxed out at some point by a previous owner. That SEEMED to have the effect of retarding the distributor by one tooth when attempting to line it up at TDC, so I could just BARELY get a 0° BTDC advance out of it. I took the dizzy out and reset the under bolt to about the middle, and then re-inserted the dizzy with the motor at TDC and I think that put me at the intended tooth, as now I max out at 10° BTDC.

Now the truck runs a lot better, and seems to cool decently, though it still runs on the hot side of the temp gauge even with a new radiator (Champion), water pump, and thermostat. I've always heard these engines run cool... so I'm not sure what I'm missing.

The last major obstacle I'm dealing with (outside of the overheating), seems to be a combination of things.
1) A bad off-idle stumble, but it is possible to coax it through
2) A high idle with the idle speed screw all the way out (I'd assume vacuum leak, but can't find one w/ brake clean or propane)