For those of you running the Torqstorm, how did you plumb your PCV valve?

I just finished mine on Sunday and it didn't even occur to me that the PCV wouldn't work correctly hooked to the intake since it often has positive pressure instead of vacuum, so I'm getting oil collecting on the valve cover around the PCV. Right now I have a hose going from the PCV to a small air manifold I put on the intake. Other ports on the manifold go to the boost gage, fuel pressure regulator, and the blow off valve.

The pcv should work as originally intended. When operating on boost, the PCV valve will close. When there is minimal manifold vacuum the valve will be fully open. When high vacuum the valve be partially open (restricted). Do you have a breather on the valve cover? Ideally you should have a "breather" connected from the valve cover to the "clean" side of the air cleaner.

https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/r ... ajaxhist=0
PS: This is for NA or turbocharged application. I'm not really sure if this is valid for a mechanical supercharged application.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks! The video was quite educational and I have a better understanding of it now.

I don't quite agree. Every factory setup I've ever encountered, across multiple carmakers and decades, ducts the crankcase air inlet to the dirty side of the air cleaner. It makes no difference when there's manifold vacuum. But when there isn't—when the crankcase is at atmospheric pressure or higher—if you duct crankcase gas to the clean side of the air cleaner, you're going to be throwing oil mist and vapour into the intake tract. They will make everything dirty: carburetor or fuel injectors, intake valves, etc. They will also reduce the octane of the fuel reaching the cylinders; oil does that. Here again, no big deal when there's manifold vacuum—that same oil mist/vapour is inducted via the PCV valve, though in that case most or all of the carburetor is spared the dirt. But under heavy acceleration, with or without boost, you don't want to be making knock more likely.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Oil Mist? We call that lubrication! Lubrication is your friend. No more stuck valves. More lubrication for the valve seats. Plus it is an internal muffler protector as it works it's way to the back.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

You are correct. I wasn't thinking correctly.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Hi Rich,
This is my solution. I have applied it to my Dart and my D100 and it seems to be working.
I added a port into the 2 into 1 carby adapter so as to not affect any one cylinder with the PCV shenanigans.
This was based on a thread from SlantSixDan. I then added a catch can to try and filter some of the PCV gunk and a check valve to keep the boost from sending the catch can contents back towards the PCV valve. Its homegrown , but I did take auto shop in high school.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

Interesting. So the line closer to the bottom of the pic goes to the PCV and the line closer to top of pic goes to the carb adapter, correct?

This was my way to get crankshaft real oil leaks fixed after the other tricks were tested.

I found your discussion and like to join it. I dont have a Torqstorm but I have a TO3/4 turbo
and I had fatal oil leaks under boost. I used a standard Felpro 2 piece rear seal and after
couple of trials I found I cannot get this sealed (there was also a trial to made oversized neck
for the seal for better compression - no improvements occurred).

So I made a continous underpressure to the crankcase and I won!

There was not big crankcase pressures before. I measured it during road tests and there
was just 0.03 bar overpressure max under boost which is not much. But under the boost
there was an oil leak.

See the picture with texts on it. I have built the valvecover with a GM oil filler neck and a sealing cap. The
tube goes to the catch can which collects the water and oil from the breathing gases. The
catch can is underpressurized by an electric vacuum pump. The pump outlet is connected
to the air filter tube before turbo. Some oil has been seen going thru the turbo but it doesnt
made any harm for anything.

The high tech trick is the vacuum pump driving which is made by the ECU. The pump run
pretty silent during normal conditions but when throttled hard it goes stepless to the full speed
by following the boost pressure.

The complete system has been found leak proof. Either I dont need the check the catch can
every this and then because the system does it automatically by feeding the waste to the engine inlet.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.

Very cool solution to boost-generated oil leaks. Thanks for sharing.
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks lgu - very interesting

Hi Rich,
Actually, the lower/ closer hose comes from the OUT port of the catch can and goes through the check valve to the carby adapter which is manifold pressure. The arrow at the top of the check valve shows that it will allow the gases to flow to the carby adapter when there is vacuum, but inhibits flow to the catch can when there is boost. The upper/ farther hose comes directly from the PCV valve to the IN port of the catch can.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

Thanks Bill!