I thought you had that head done up at the machine shop?
But I smack the retainer with a hammer before I compress the spring
What are you using for a spring compressor? One that the "foot" works off of the retainer? And the screw part works on the valve head?

I figured out they were just time stuck. I watched a YT video where someone did the hammer thing. I'm using the Autozone loan-a-tool compressor that grabs low coils on the spring and then has a part which presses on the retainer. I'm having to compress the spring, hold the valve with my fingers and tap at the retainer with a brass punch to get them loose.

With just about any head, if the head is off the engine, put it on the bench deck surface down (valve springs up). Use a deep socket on the retainer, and smack the socket with a hammer. That will usually free the keepers from the retainer. Then just use the spring compressor in the usual manor. Be careful when using the hammer, sometime the keepers will try to fly out.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I don't really like that type compressor. Get the "C" clamp type. It will give you more room to work on the retainer and locks.
Like this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-906785

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Agreed, the C-clamp style works a lot better when you have the head off. There are some parts stores that loan those as well as the grab-a-spring style, if you're on a tight budget.

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project

Got all the valve stem seals done and the new manifold studs installed. That's all the progress I made today. Too stuffed with Thanksgiving dinner to do anything other than sit this evening. The Remflex gaskets arrived yesterday though. Days early. They weren't forecast until tomorrow.

I had forgotten but I really need to clean up the spark plug tubes. They're really cruddy.

Manifold installation question if I'm using Remflex gaskets should I tighten the nuts on the studs to 5-7 ft-lb like the package says or go with the 10-12 this article recommends? https://www.slantsix.org/articles/manif ... unting.htm

5 to 7 like Remflex recommends.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Merry Christmas slant sixers.

My project has been stalled waiting on tools to tap threads into the A.I.R. port so I can plug it. That's finally done.

Now I'm ready to bolt manifolds to head and then set the head back on the engine.

I've been searching for the conical washer for the top center stud I thought I'd misplaced. But then I was looking at a photo I'd taken of the carb linkages for reference and see someone before me had put a triangle washer in that spot. Trying to decide if I delay the project further for the proper washer or just reuse that one.

What does the brain trust here think about just going back with the washer there as pictured?

Well, bother. After going to all the trouble to chase the manifold stud threads, seal them with PTFE, bench assemble the manifolds to head and then to shop crane antics to get it that assembly in it runs BUT......I have multiple manifold studs leaking. So now I get to do an R&R on the manifolds and their studs in the truck anyway. Something I was hoping to avoid since I'm hobbit sized so have to either stand on a box or just crawl up into the engine bay. Either way involves lots of bending of my old back. I don't know if the PTFE has failed to seal due to age or if it simply isn't up to the task of those threads.

I generally use thread tape( Which should be enough, alone) and then give it a dab of teflon paste. It acts as a sealant and lubricates as it gets tightened. Sorry you have to redo this job.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I recently had the same issue.

Once the threads are new and clean they do not seal as well in my findings.

The ones that leaked a bit needed a lot of thread tape and pipe dope. I did finally get them to stop and seal.

Once a bit of the internal cooling system junk and corrosion sets in that will stop the leaks also.

Making sure the studs are fully seated in the head helps with this problem.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That seems odd?
I have been chasing almost all the threads in everything I assemble. It makes my life much easier in the future when I take it apart.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Those studs have a "shank" in the middle. I make sure the threads are clean (but not loose). You don't want the stud to be sloppy on the threads. Then I use "lock tite" thread sealant (545 purple) on the stud. Install the stud in the head till it is "snug", against the shank. Let the sealant cure before disturbing the stud. I have had several leakers both with small blocks, and slant sixes, until I started doing them this way.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

It's not the appropriate (or specified) material for the job. PTFE sealant is appropriate for pipe-thread joints.

Clean the studs and head holes thoroughly, and use Loctite 542 or 592 on the head ends of the studs.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.