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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2025 5:39 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
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Location: IRWIN PA
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A small water heating unit can easily be built and frabicobbled out of an old junkyard transmission or engine oil cooler and affixed to the bottom of the intake.

I have yet do this, but It can be done and will achieve some under carb heating if needed, although not as effective of the instant heat of the factory style exhaust manifold flap and thermostatic air cleaner with diverter valve to the heat stove.

Greg

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2025 8:13 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2024 8:58 pm
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Car Model: 1965 Dodge D100
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15 degrees is pretty cold! :D If you leave the choke on a little does it drive differently?
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FYI - The electronic ignition I put in has an advanced street curve
I doubt the curve is the real problem. Is it pinging badly? What is the initial advance and what is the total advance.
If total mechanical advance is limited to not more that 30-32 you should be fine. To much advance generally slows down our race cars at the the high rpm end of the spectrum, not the low end.

I would definitely check for air leaks at the intake and carb. Does changing the Accelerator pump shot help the bog/hesitation?


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File comment: I'll look into it. Would my exhaust configuration/reduction of backpressure have anything to do with it?
slant 6 exhaust.jpg
slant 6 exhaust.jpg [ 71.71 KiB | Viewed 181 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2025 3:13 pm 
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The electronic ignition I put in has an advanced street curve (Rick’s Mopars on EBay)
Oops…see here and then here.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2025 12:09 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Car Model: 1965 Dodge D100
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I will heartily disagree with Dan on the intake issue. That 2bbl Aussiespeed long runner is superb at low-mid range. It should be perfect on your truck if the carb is jetted right. Better than a 1bbl or BBD on a stock 2bbl intake. Yes, I have personal experience with that setup. I did not have fuel puddling or bad behavior at low temperatures, at least down to about 30 F. I did run the 500 2bbl, which works well on about any Slant (yes, I have run it on stockers and 11:1 race motors), but the 350 should be as good or better given the mild nature of your engine. That intake actually does NOT work well at high RPM and really shines from idle to about 4500 or 5000.

It would really help you to have higher compression and more head flow for your application, but it sounds like that will have to wait. I second Greg's comment about going to a 3.91 rear gear with those tall tires.

Lou
Lou - I never rejetted the carburetor or messed with the accelerator pump setting...i'm thinking it may just be running lean since it's bogging down. My Holley 2300 350 CFM is straight out of the box. Thoughts?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2025 12:27 pm 
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The 350 should not be that far off out of the box. Make sure the valves are lashed properly and you map your timing curve, especially since it's an aftermarket distributor. Or for a coarse test, just try advancing it 10 deg and see if it runs better. If worse, retard it 10 deg from where you started. My wild guess is the timing needs to be advanced, but hard to say. You made a ton of changes in one go.

Lou

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