I am about to start rebuilding the front end on my 76 D100 and part of the rebuild will include the ball joints. Factory service manual says that to remove the ball joints i need to get special tool DD-1278 to hold the coil spring in a compressed state once the ball joints have been pressed out of the control arm.

OK, but the cheapest I can find that tool is about $300 plus shipping.

In the pictures, the tool looks like a thick length of all-thread with nuts and washers on each end and an inverted cone between the nuts, like a slide hammer weight. If I knew the bolt size and thread pitch I am confident I could throw together a reasonable facsimile of the tool using simple hardware, but I don't know those details.
Is anyone aware of a reasonably cheaper alternative to this coil spring compressor?

Anybody have experience using OEM 27035 in place of DD-1278?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

that lower tool will work fine.

if you set jack stands under the frame, then put your floor jack under the lower control arm and lift til the frame comes off the stand enough to raise it one more notch, you can then lower the jack just enough to settle back on the jack stand. the floor jack will keep the lower control are and spring from hyperextending.

You don't need any special tools for this, except for the ball joint sockets and a pickle fork or a ball joint separator tool.

Are you only replacing the threaded upper ball joint? If you are replacing the lower ball joint on the truck, the lower control arm needs to be removed for press work, or you can use a ball joint press.

Usually, when I do these, I pull the whole thing apart because it is also time for upper and lower control arm bushings as well.

I do have a 20 ton hydraulic press in the basement to help with such things.

Back to the springs..

Jack up your truck under the control arm to compress the spring(not high). Seperate the upper ball joint from the knuckle, then lower the truck onto jack stands and leave the tension off of the lower control arm slowly. It will slowly uncompress the spring in a controlled manner - the knuckle and lower control arm will hang down alllowing you to remove the spring and do any other front suspension work as needed.

Hope that makes sense! Use Jack stands nor from HF, and be safe!
I have done it this way, on the D200 and my B200 Van, and it is waaaay less scary than macherson strut work.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That's a sweet van, Greg!

Thanks for the input. I have done Macpherson strut spring replacement a few times and yes, it feels like you are dealing with a loaded cannon pointed at you.

I already found and purchased the factory tool for removing ball joints with the control arms still installed, but I really should go all the way and do the upper and lower bushings. I do have a press for pressing in bearings, ball joints, bushings, etc....

I did find an auction for just the cone part of tool DD-1278. That looks like the hardest part to find. I can buy a rod of all-thread and some nuts and washers locally. Then again, I already own a floor jack.

If I take the control arms off, how do I get the coil spring back in its pocket on reassembly? I assume the control arms have to be installed before the spring goes in, but is it possible to get the spring back in place without it being compressed? If I can do that then I can save some money and stop worrying about getting this other special tool.

RE: the ball joints. I know in the mid 70s Mopar wasn't consistent with press in ball joints vs. screw in ball joints. I don't want to destroy my control arm in an attempt to get a ball joint out the wrong way. I do have the special mopar ball joint sockets (big and small sizes). The lower ball joint I know is pressed in, but the upper ball joint (at least on the passenger side) has flats like would fit into the socket. However, the factory service manual says the upper ball joint is pressed in too. Am I safe to start by trying to unthread the socket and then resorting to a press if the ball joint won't budge?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

If it is a real FSM it should be right? I thought the ball joints threaded in? I have been wrong before.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Yes, it is a true Dodge published manual. I just needed to take my own advice and READ it.

The ball joints are PRESSED into the knuckle/spindle. That is what the special tool is for. The lower ball joints are PRESSED into the lower control arm. The UPPER ball joints are THREADED into the CONTROL ARM.

I have been a bit sleep deprived this week due to working late several nights in a row.

And in other news I may have found tool DD-1278 for a reasonable price. Fingers crossed.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

That is the ones I meant. Sorry I'm not sleep deprived I'm just old!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

When you re-assemble, the springs get placed into the lower control arm pockets and into the frame which capture the tops of the coil springs . As you use the floor jack to raise the lower control arm back up the springs will compress into place.. Just the reverse of the disassembly process.

Cheers!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks. Still waiting for a few things to arrive before I dive into this project. I have to say, I am looking forward to working on something so simple as my 1976 Dodge truck. Lately, most of my car work has been on 2000s era Buicks.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Yup. Just like he said.