I had a 904 in my car with the smaller spline yoke in it. Maybe 27 spline, I can't remember and didn't count! But the 833 I am installing has the larger spine count yoke. I actually have the yoke in hand but I noticed that the overall length of the yoke is @ 1" longer than the 904 yoke. That extra 1" does not have any splines in it so I don't know it's purpose. The issue for me is that my current driveline had the yoke out @ 1" from the end of the tailshaft. When sliding the 833 yoke into the end of the transmission it goes in and stops @ 2" out. My plan was to just swap on this yoke to my driveline, but as you can see that would make my driveline about an inch too long. I really didn't want to shorten my driveline unless I had to. Can I cut off that non-splined end of the yoke and use it? Or is there a different yoke I need to get. Anyone else run into this issue? Thanks

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I don't think the yoke should be the problem; however, it seems to be for you.

Check both the 904 and your 833 from the transmission mount to the end of the output shaft / tailshaft housing. They should be the same.

Also, you likely moved the entire assembly back when installing your V8 adaptor plate between the bellhousing and engine. That is where I think your problem exists, creating a longness in your driveshaft that was not there before.

Good luck and happy slanting.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

No Not the case. The barrel of the yoke is a different length. About and inch. My car does not have an adapter in it. I have the correct Quicktime bellhousing for a Slant 6. I see on Denny's Driveshafts that they have a 30 spline yoke that is the correct (same) length as the 904 yoke. Then on Summit they have one like I have with no splines out at the end. That one is listed for a 727/833 also. So there are two different lengths for sure. I am wondering if the longer tailshaft transmissions had a longer yoke?

Unless someone has a serious reason not to I will likely cut this one down and run it. I don't see it being any different than if I buy a new one for $137 and use it or cut down the one I have.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Rick,
If it were mine, I'd cut off the non-splined part at the end and run it if the depth then becomes acceptable. I've seen those yokes before.
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hmm, that is odd. I would have thought the length of the yoke did not matter relative to where the U-joint resides. Yep. I agree, cut it off, it can't hurt to try that. I have seen them in both styles, but I never had the problem you describe.

I did not know you were using the QT bell Housing.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I have a dummy yoke here I use in my transmissions when I remove them or work on them.
Its 7 inches long.
It has 3 inches inside with no splines.
I can move it into my 3.09 gear box all the way to the where the seal bottoms.
I have the 1 inch real seal, with dust boot, not just a short seal.
It is 30 or 31 spline.

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Hyper_pak

That is even longer than mine and has even less splines than if I cut mine off. I will try reinserting the one I have and will take a picture for you. Mine doesn't come close to the seal. I had a bunch of pictures to post but the wonderful tech world (I phone and windows 11) don't want to play nice at all. So I have to retake some photos and get them into JPEG format before I can post them. I hate electronics

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Here is the yoke before I cut it off. I cut just about 1" off and retried inserting it. No go! It is still about an inch further out than I think it should be. The splines go clear up to the end of the yoke, so I would think it would go in almost to the seal. Here is where it stops. I tried bumping it in and it does not seem to hit solid.(Like metal on metal) But it just seems to get tight and stop. Guess I need to look at the exploded view and see whats up? Probably remove the tailshaft? Any brilliant ideas welcomed.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

The problem is the yoke itself. I cleaned it out real well so I can see down the splines and they are definitely twisted. That is why it goes in and gets tight but not like metal on metal. The splines are just getting tight were they are twisted.

New yoke for a 7290 U-joint is on the way! Dr. Diff come through again!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Oh wow That makes sense. I have never heard of the splines twisting. But I guess it can happen.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Wow. Did Ryan ever drive the vehicle with that yoke in it? That would explain the twisted splines!!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yes he did and I know it was hammered pretty hard. Hopefully the output shaft splines are Ok. I'll know as soon as the new yoke arrives.

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

New yoke arrived and that fixed my problem!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6