That's my frontrunner hypothesis.
should be similar.
1 part Simple Green HD Pro (like this) to 8 parts hot water. If you want to reduce the volume of used cleaning fluid you have to get rid of, put hot water in the ultrasonic cleaner, and put your carburetor/parts and cleaning fluid in a smaller, closed container which you then put in the larger water bath.

Don't leave the parts in the cleaner too long; 20 to 25 minutes ought to be plenty, and you don't want to start attacking the surface treatment (passivation) on the carburetor metal, otherwise it will be much more prone to corrosion. Also, don't soak the choke pull-off. The Simple Green won't eat the rubber diaphragm, but it'll be very difficult to get the liquid out of the pull-off and it can just be cleaned externally, for looks, with a toothbrush dipped in your cleaning solution.

Once it's out of the cleaner, repeat the ultrasonic treatment with plain hot water (hotter = better), then pull it out and let it dry thoroughly.

When it is time to dispose of the soiled cleaning fluid, please do it betterwise than this:
Eight- to ten-week backlog for a good kit from Jon Hargrove? Whoof. My opinion of the Daytona kits (and that guy's entire operation) has slipped and fallen — see here, for example—but if he's putting Holley-type inlet needle/seat assemblies in all his kits, that's less of a problem on a Holley carb like yours than on a Carter or Stromberg carburetor. See if he'll be able to include a float gauge, and don't let yourself be talked into that "100% NEW!!!!1!!!!!111!!" replacement carburetor he's hawking; it takes such a large amount of hacking to make it almost kinda sorta fit/work that it is not worth messing with.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Asked for a sip, and he handed me the whole bottle. Thanks a lot for the advice.
Float gauge was said to be included. I'm gonna bite the Daytona bullet and pray that I dodge the hit. Will report back. They even offered to include a float for $40, which hopefully I won't need.
Jon doesn't seem to provide a gauge for this carb, but recommended buying a sliding metal T square from a local parts store. He was going to look up the exact spec for me (although mentioned Holley stopped publishing it in '59 or so?), I'll have to call back soon.

UPDATE: Spoke to Jon, he gave me the float setting, which is 27/32. Turns out he's also got an extra phenolic float as a direct replacement. Good to know.

I'm trying to quit. So far no luck.
He doesn't much like Holley carburetors. Neither do I. Which is fine; everyone's entitled to their own religious beliefs. But for the record, the float settings are in the factory service manual.
Yes indeed!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So I just manually set the choke*, started it up, and it actually idled on its own, albeit very rough.
Then I did the carb cleaner idle passage clean-out and it actually idled smoother. It'll actually idle itself 'till hot now!
Then I blocked the broken anti-ice carb inlet vacuum with my finger, and it idled even smoother (expected, like the PCV plug behavior). Still quite shaky though.

I'm still set on rebuilding the carb this weekend, but I figure it's worth sharing.

*does it make sense that it didn't auto-engage because it's nearly 100°F out and the "coil" has already expanded?
Side note, I ordered the electronic choke.
That nipple connection under the air cleaner is already connected to the exhaust manifold underside via rubber hose.
See below:
And what should I use to cap this nipple coming out from the exhaust manifold that was previously the metal anti-ice line? Will need to resist some heat...
See below, and also curious what that screw is for in the head:
I know I know, the bay can use a shine...

No, the engine would still be cold if not run for awhile.
Factory config is air cleaner nipple -> rubber hose -> steel pipe to bottom of № 2 exhaust runner -> insulated steel pipe from top of № 2 exhaust runner --> carburetor.

What you want is air cleaner nipple -> rubber hose -> carburetor.
Nothing; it doesn't need to be sealed at either end; there's nothing to seal. It's just a straight-through tube.
Lifting the engine.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That explains that.
Neat.

Another cleaner that works excellent in the ultrasonic cleaners is called Oil Eater. I have been using it in the mower shop for years. It is does not turn the surface of the carbs gray like some cleaners do and it is reasonably priced. It is safe enough to be used in the washer with your clothes. I usually mix it about a quart to 2 gallons or a little more.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Looks to be around the same price as Simple Green.
It appears that the difference between regular Simple Green and Simple Green Pro HD is exactly that. The Pro HD variant is designed to be non-corrosive to aluminums.

(also the rear one of those threaded bosses is where to attach your electric choke kit's modulator/sensor, with the little box hanging over the edge of the head above the manifolds. It'll make sense when you see it.)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Carb's disassembled and cleaned. All passages ways now have passage. That machine is good stuff!
There was all sorts of garbage and buildup in the float bowl after sitting all those years... Makes me wonder about the fuel tank. The fuel that comes up isn't the greatest color either...

Daytona kit has arrived, and will begin putting it back together shortly.
Should I take care to grease any specific parts or areas while assembling?

There's some gasket left on the accelerator diaphragm that I can't seem to remove.
Will this be an issue when the new one gets on?: https://i.imgur.com/627J3IJ.jpeg (couldn't upload the image here without PHP error)
There's also very minor bits of black float bowl gasket stuck on the float boat side of things.

Stretched the spring on that stem from 1" -> 1.5" as mentioned. What does that actually do?
Looks like there's a wire attached there already to a body bolt... Why would that be there? Image: https://i.imgur.com/sEQAgxk.jpeg (old pic). Hope it's not the main ground for the spark plugs or such.
There's actually another one like that connected from the battery negative to a bolt under where the hood rests when closed in a painted area... Image: https://i.imgur.com/5iQcjNQ.jpeg

Yah, eh!
Do not run the engine with the rebuilt carburetor until you have dropped and cleaned (and preferably sealed the fuel tank, drained the fuel line of old fuel, and put in fresh gasoline. Otherwise you'll be right back where you started. To scratch the itch of "Does it run better now? Huh? Huh? Does it, does it, huh?" after the carb rebuild, you can run a rubber hose from the inlet side of the fuel pump to a lawnmower-type gas can and carefully try the engine out briefly.
No.
That whole assembly gets thrown away and replaced with new. As long as there's no residue in/on the carb body, you're fine.
Keep cleaning til it's gone; this surface needs to be clean-clean-clean.
Drives the accelerator pump a bit harder to forestall (lol) a stumble on acceleration.
Because somebody put your engine-to-body ground cable on the wrong place on the engine. Also, that cable's looking a bit crispity-crunchity; replace it.
That's somebody's shade-tree add-on. Not a bad idea; in fact it's a good idea to have a wire running from the alternator housing (some of them have a "GRD" or "GND" hole on the back; use a short screw) to the voltage regulator base, to the battery negative. But red wire is poor practice on grounds.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I've actually ordered a replacement tank from Amazon. Who woulda thunk.

Now, back to the carb.
First off, based on some research it seems there is supposed to be some kind of check weight on the metering block in the diaphragm indent in the "round" hole (and a check ball in the "flat" hole). I don't see that on mine. Should it exist? Is it stuck? I tried removing/opening the brass "U cup" at the top to peer inside, but I just couldn't get that thing off to check (and replacements don't come in the kit). See Image.

Next, the kit came with a replacement economizer diaphragm piece (I think it's called?), but the holes on the rubber/cloth-like area don't exactly align... Image. Just daytona shenanigans? The old one is in good condition. Okay to reuse?

And ah yes, the fuel inlet piece. Cleaned her up shiny. Any reason to use the modified Daytona version as opposed to the existing, working OEM one?

I know nothing about this "TRQ" brand; the go-to is Spectra Premium. Fingers crossed!
Offhand I don't remember such an item, but I also don't 100-per-cent trust my recall on that. No such item is shown in the 1969 FSM; where did you see it (what is the research you mention)?
Good. The metering block should stay assembled.
Bit of a toss-up. If you push the stem toward the cap, thus sort of cupping the diaphragm into the cap, then do the holes line up better?
Use the new inlet needle/seat assembly; the rubber seal inside degrades with age and gasoline-steeping.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Right here at timestamp 3:27 (should auto-seek with that link).
Better, but still half off for one of the small holes.
Will do. I noticed the old one keeps the needle in the seat pretty tight (though it moves back and forth freely mimicking float action), but the new one just falls out if tilted no problem. Hope that's not a cause for concern. The new also doesn't contain that slit in the "bolt" to see what's going on inside. (I guess that's the difference in functionality here?)

Regarding the e-choke. Here's my current attempt at plugging-and-playing: Image

Two things:
- The e-choke body doesn't align with the manifold bolts properly. Can only screw in one at a time (bottom left in image).
- The throttle tension spring I'm holding usually gets held via that piece I'm holding that was previously tightened with the manifold bolt closest to the head (missing screw in image) on the old choke "stove".

I'm thinking of expanding the bolt hole for issue #1 and shaving down/cutting the downwards-curved part of that piece for issue #2 and mounting in that location as done previously - but I need someone to stop me unless it's best to continue.