Lookin at my motor, noticed some of the studs are tweaked, and ugly, I bought me very helpful and long needed tools in the past, matco stud removers/installers both metric and standard (sr101, Sr102). Which apparently are made in Taiwan now..... Just great. But ohwell. Is there any thing special I should know about replacing them, correct length/thread and grade? These seemed to have been replaced before seeing that they are all different

Check out these posts.http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... ght=dorman
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=290855
And this website http://www.silver-seal.com/category/sho ... foldstuds/
Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

I have read most of those threads with in the threads... And I am still very confused about all the hardware, there needs to be a sticky in the faq pointing out exactly what to use and where to get, I have 2 sets of triangle, and center washers, but no nuts or brass washers. Would pinch nuts work all the way around the manifolds so there is no chance of nuts backing off. I am dyslexic so its kinda hard for me to read all the posts and completely understand them, you have to admit the topic is all over the place.

Try reading this one http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26677.
Pay attention to slantsixdans post.

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

i was wondering why not use mechanical lock nuts on all studs (pinch nuts) that way once you set the torque, it stays at that torque, every single section would always be at the same torque all the time, dont have to worry about "special" castel nuts that you guys are using the incorrect way.

i would sure like some input on why you guys go the route you go on this paticular subject. to me it just makes sense, if something requires hardly any torque at all (10ftlbs) it would be more prone to backing off from vibration, and heat expansion. and pinch nuts are made exactly for that, no need for a lock washer, or locktite

Maybe and maybe not. What's important isn't the torque but the clamping force delivered by any given torque.
A statement like this makes my beard stand on end. You are asserting that Chrysler got it wrong for, um, most of three decades and you've got it right. You're going to have to back up that assertion with some good, sturdy support, please.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

from what i have read, they do not make the correct "MOPAR" nut any longer. thus thats why people buy the typical castel nut, which is made for using with cotter pins, put them upside down and.. well i guess it works, but not designed for that. they do make special nuts specificaly for locking down, like i said, pinch nuts, and there are a few other styles aswell, which do resemble a castel nut.

it doesnt mater what nut is used, if they all have the same torque, they all will have the same clamping power, unless its some kind of flange nut, which spreads the torque more generously. its the fact that the nut will stay in place and not back out is what i was saying.

i also have a question about the washers.

i noticed that the triangle, washers have a concave, and a protruding side, i dont remember how these were, which way do they face.

also i have 3 round concave washers, and the rest triangles. i had no brass washers, or any sort of special nuts at all. ive been trying to read all the links given, and im still confused on the complete installation process, which way they go, how many, where to get, everyone seems to be saying different things, im just having quite a bit of trouble

This link proved very helpful when I installed my manifolds:

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/manifo ... unting.htm

_________________

Here are some pictures of the special nuts on the manifolds of the slant six in my brother's Duster. I strongly believe that this engine has never been disassembled since it was built back in 1974, so the nuts are installed as Chrysler intended.

Front brass washer and castle nut:


Middle cupped round washer:



Rear brass washed and castle nut:



There are triangle washers as well in the pictures.

Reed,

Someone has replaced that manifold in the past, per installation instructions you just posted step 3, the cone side of the nut is to face the washer. This is to allow the nut to capture the washer and center it (and it's load), but allowing the manifold to expand and contract while not allowing the washer to wander, also as the nose is compressed in the washer opening it puts a little clamping force on the threads to keep the nut from backing off.

-D.Idiot

Interesting. I didn't look that closely at it. You are absolutely right! Dang, I thought I had an unmolested motor.

Silver seal wants 8 dollars to ship 13 studs, thats 3 dollars more then the part value.. lmao ill just go to Hilco

i ordered 13 studs from silverseal, i had to call them up, and they kinda gave me some excuses and a bunch of non sense. first a guy says he can just send in a envelope for a buck, then they email me with a total, and want 9 for freight.. more then the original quote lol.... called them up blah blah blah, got it down to 10 bucks shipped.

anyways they should come tomorrow as i ordered them friday. and i want to know which stud holes go through water jackets. and also i was just going to put a dab of blue lock tite on each stud, which would seal the water jacket prob. anybody against this?

What is the thread and pitch for the heat riser bolts and the choke pocket? Also OS it suppose to be studs or bolts on the heat riser?

I need some helicoil repairs