On my 1970 D100, I am considering running EFI fuel line from the fuel pump to the new tank in the bed (behind cab). I want to remove the hard line that is old and questionable. I can run it in the C of the frame to protect it. The thought is to simplify it and eliminate extra unions. I would do this along with the forum mod to the carb.

I know I can't take it to the drag strip this way, but it is a slant six truck LOL. Will this be safe and reliable?

Thanks, Craig

You mean rubber hose? It was never meant to run that long. It may work but it's iffy at best. Plus... it's quite expensive, it certainly won't be cheaper vs making your own hardline.

You don't have to make the hardline one long piece, you can make 2-3 more convenient pieces and join them with short sections of hose and clamps.

If you want something flexible to be a bit easier to run then use stainless braid teflon hose. That certainly won't be cheap either.

I can remake the hard line if it is a must. I just don't like all of the unions as they are spots for potential leaks.

Boats use flexible lines over those lengths as standard practice.

My thought was the EFI fuel line (Gates Barricade Brand) is rated for much higher pressure than the fuel pump will deliver so no potential pressure failures. The EFI fuel line also has built in abrasion resistance.

But if this is unsafe - I will use the hard line.

Thanks, Craig

Scraigallen, the fuel pump will suck fuel from the tank, so the hose will be at atmospheric pressure or a vacuum pressure (if you don't have a fuel pump in the tank). Long rubber hoses can collapse on vacuum, and starve/damage your pump (not good). There should be no problem with few unions, the pressure is going to be low anyway.

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I doubt it will collapse. This is small diameter relatively stiff hose. I've used thinner clear vinyl pvc hose for testing with an efi fuel pump (hose to tank through the filler neck, pump laying at floor by the door) and it was just fine.

Boats don't often run fuel lines on their bottom attached to keel, and ride over rocks, snow & ice, brush, trashcans, traffic cones and whatever else that can kick up and snag a line.

Use metal, perhaps one of the fuel line manufactures has one all pre bent that will clip right into place. If not it is not hard to run several lengths of stock flared tubing fastened together. These lengths won't leak when tightened sufficiently.

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82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
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It can't be more than 10-12' from the tank in the bed to the engine. I would run aluminum line and not have any unions. Rubber at each end. 2 cents for ya.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Why not use copper nickel line; it's easier to bend and still rigid. I know they use this for tranny and brake lines.

brian

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I used brake lines. There cheap and If you get the right ones you don't need a tool to bend them. Just make sure to label them as fuel lines and get the right size.

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~Nic

I like the copper nickel hard line idea. Thanks.

I think I will head in that direction.

It is very nice stuff but the price in the larger sizes is 3 times as much as aluminum for shorter lengths. I think 25 feet of 3/8 or 5/16 aluminum is under $20 at Summit. Good luck!

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I wonder if pirating fuel lines, or sections of fuel line, from a late model junkyard vehicle would be practical?

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

I used 3/8th" brake line and bent it to fit all the way from the tank to the AN flex line for the fuel rail. It has worked fine for ten years. 5/16ths for the return.

Sam

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