The original spirt hole is blocked by the cast crank bearing (the hole is in a different place) and I did keep the size of the new hole the same.... so oil demand should be about the same.
I did reuse the "homemade" aluminum HV oil pump off Buster so there should be plenty of flow available.
DD

You know stuff.

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

Here are a couple of photos of that light weight cast crank installed into the early block.
No problems with the final crank installation... seeing that all the time and "pain" was covered during the mock-up stage and block clearancing work.
DD

one word......SICK !!!!!

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Thanks Doug. And keep us posted. I am eager to see how this works out.

Sam

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I especially liked your caster wheel based set up. Very creative.
Don

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Don

Here are the "numbers" on this assembly:
3.475 Bore X 4.125 stroke (55 lb cast crank)
7.006 c to c factory 198 con rods, lightened to 535 grams.
KB # 268 pistons w/ 1.594 compression height & 18 cc "D dish".
The block had the deck cut just enough to true it up (.008) removed and the final assembly has -.024 deck height.
Steel shim head gasket (.020) to give a .044 quench zone.
54 cc head chamber & 40 degree intake closing point. (at .050 lift)
8.997 Static C/R and 7.71 DCR

Here what the assembled short block looks like:
DD

Would be neat to see fuel mileage numbers on this one with EFI and a stick!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Why not put in a full groove main bearing so the rods see full time oiling (rather than pulsed) and call it a day.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

We always 'partially groove' the mains as standard practice, enough groove to get by the "parting line" and smoothly transition into the solid lower insert...



Here is a photo of the assembled long block... ready to install.
All the parts painted silver are 'recycled' from the Buster engine.

The car has "Dutra Duals" so the front exhaust manifold will have to be swapped-off the engine currently in the car and bolted onto this engine... as we do the R & R.
Time to get this unit into service!
DD

Doc,
What do use to do that? I would like to try that on my next rebuild.

Thanks,

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I use a Dremel tool with a 1/32 cut-off wheel... then use a small triangle file to clean-up the entry.
We spent the time to make a bearing holder and "guide", with a locating slit in it. (An old main cap and a piece of 2.750 PVC pipe)
Put the bearing in the holder, place the guide over it, to protect the rest of the bearing surface and run the wheel thru the locating slit.
Remove "slitted" bearing, file the entry edge & deburr as needed.
It does take some time & a steady hand.
DD

Bananas for the good Doctor.