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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 6:47 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 4:42 am
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Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
Great to hear Greg!! :D

Hamilton/N. Wilkesboro next month..? :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 7:02 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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100% on the sickness. Do you still have a dash frame? Learned a lot from the racer crowd. A couple of them didn't wanna tell me the vehicle weight though :lol:

Glad you did not find any problems!

I used to run the 6x1 header and it worked pretty good.

I have No dash Frame - That's about 10-20#'s - I removed that when I took the windshield out and went Lexan.

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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 7:03 pm 
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Great to hear Greg!! :D

Hamilton/N. Wilkesboro next month..? :wink:
That's The Plan. - We'll see if it holds together :-)


Greg

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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 7:06 am 
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Good news, Greg! Gee, I wish I had listened to your car now. I have heard that noise several times and it distinct from rod knocking.

Interested to see the header results....

Lou

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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 7:17 am 
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Supercharged
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Thanks lou,

I wanted to save the parts so once I suspected rod knocking I even winched it up onto the trailer - Better to Be safe and Save a few bucks and have it turn out this way..

I have already learned my lesson with the Dart - I fried a rod and crank after running it with a "noise" in the motor.


Greg

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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 7:48 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Greg, not sure why but I couldn't keep converter bolts tight on mine either. Tried 2 different transmissions, 3 different converters, and 3 flexplates. Red Loctite wouldn't even hold.

Hope you have better luck. :D

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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 8:16 am 
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Location: IRWIN PA
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I might Just take the bolts to my competent machinist and Have them drilled for safety wire... Then I'll tie them together with the wire and locktite :-)


Greg

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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 6:27 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:20 am
Posts: 758
Location: St. Louis Park, MN
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Stage 8 fasteners makes torque converter bolts that utilize aluminum tabs and snap rings to positively lock them.

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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 6:40 pm 
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Supercharged
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Stage 8 fasteners makes torque converter bolts that utilize aluminum tabs and snap rings to positively lock them.

Another Good option.

Good to know and thanks for sharing, Seymour.


Greg

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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 4:33 pm 
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Location: Purlear, N.C.
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Greg, My computer has been down a few days, so I didnt know about the good news till now. I have had converter bolts come loose a couple of times as well. Now Im always worried about them coming loose again even with locktight. Im glad Ruster is healthy.
Ron

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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 8:40 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Yep Should be all good.

I should get 2 local test sessions here at home before going to Wilkesboro...


I wanted to try out the Hooker Super comps and I also have a set of 4.88's Built on the stand that Maybe Will lower my ET? Possibly these would be for my 1/8 Mile setup?

Wee shall See.


Greg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 6:13 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:17 am
Posts: 329
Location: Seymour, TN
Car Model: 1965 Dart 270 w/ 66 Valiant front clip
This is an addictive thread. I must have missed it but, how many point cage do you have? Chrome Moly? Where do you get one?

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 Post subject: 7-2-13
PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 3:50 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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This is an addictive thread. I must have missed it but, how many point cage do you have? Chrome Moly? Where do you get one?

Thanks,

The Kit I got Was a competition Engineering Kit. It's Chromemoly - Needs to Be TIG/GTAW welded in and you can learn alot of Fabricitating skills if you wish to take the task on yourself.

I suggest to Get a Tubing Notcher (woodward Fab/ Summit Has Cheaper ones) And at least a Hot / Chop Saw.


Here is a Link to where it is on this thread..
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... &start=720


The Kit has 2 Part Numbers: Links Below
The Hoop (which is Pretty Specific to your car / application) and the Strut Kit which is somewhat more universal and will take time and a lot of cutting / Sanding Grinding to fit up correctly.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-3158
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-3100

IN OTHER RUSTER NEWS...

I got the 4.88 Gear Set in - The 8.75 Chunks weigh 60# each - the 4.56's weighed the same as the 4.88's

The Hooker headers were also .2 Slower in the quarter Mile as compared to the Mopar Performance 6 into ones.. so I took those back off as well.

I will report back on the 4.88's to see if anything is quicker with those.

Greg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 4:41 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:17 am
Posts: 329
Location: Seymour, TN
Car Model: 1965 Dart 270 w/ 66 Valiant front clip
Thanks for the info Greg. I am surprised by the performance of the headers as well. I figured the Hookers would out do the Mopar ones. But it may depend on the combo??

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1965 Dodge Dart with 66 Valiant front clip. Other stuff...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 7:27 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Thanks for the info Greg. I am surprised by the performance of the headers as well. I figured the Hookers would out do the Mopar ones. But it may depend on the combo??

It's Possible that it's the Combo.

The Mopar Performance ones are a bit shorter in where the collector area comes together... in other words the Primary tubes are shorter on them.

The hooker and Cliffords have about 2" Longer Primary Rubes.

I might be interested in making an even shorter set and seeing if that helps.

Greg

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