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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 10:06 pm 
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1 BBL (New)
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Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2018 7:35 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Northern California
Car Model: 1972 Dodge Charger Slant 6
Hey! New to Forum, and new to the Chrysler Slant 6. I traded about 2 months ago straight across a 2005 mazda miata for this cherry, 72' Dodge Charger, original slant 6 and 3 on the tree. Now been converted to 3 on the floor (sad but still fun) one of a little over 900 produced that year with the slant. I traded up because this was one of my dream cars at heart couldn't pass on such a nice old charger. Runs great with original motor, fires rite up idles good. I think although i will rebuild it, seems like a simple enough motor. What kind of price am i looking at for an at home rebuild? I will dissassemble of corse and reassemble, just have the machine work done professionaly. Im on a budget id say under 3k. And not looking for crazy hp or torque, just to refresh the motor


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 11:11 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Hello and welcome! Thanks for keeping the slant six in your Charger.

With a $3k budget for a full rebuild, my recommendation is to spend th emoney on the head, exhaust, and ignition system, in that order. Spend the money and time to get the head rebuilt and have larger valves installed with porting. If you can't get the valves, at least do porting and backcutting. Do the measuring and math to get the head milled to have a true dynamic compression ratio of about 8:1.

Install a 2 1/4 inch exhaust line to a free flowing muffler, then 2 inch pipe after the muffler (if you like quiet) or 2 1/4 if that is your preference.

Finally, if you have the money left over, upgrade the ignition system to an HEI ignition and spend the time to fine-tune the vacuum and mechanical advance systems in the distributor.

All of this assumes that basics like suspension and brakes are in good working order. Always upgrade the brakes to match the performance of the motor. Other good upgrades include updating the seatbelts to modern three point belts and ditching the factory two-piece lap and shoulder belt system.

Good luck and keep us posted how your project progresses.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 3:23 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8713
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Personally, for a basically stock rebuild, I would not spend the money for large valves. Just a head rebuild, (guides, hardened exhaust seats, cut valves, and seats), and if you can do it yourself, just cleanup the bowls a little bit. Definatly mill the head to increase compression ratio. As for the short block, just a stock rebuild, maybe a mild cam. Doing the assemble, disassembly work yourself, there is no reason you cannot stay well within your budget.
PS: When installing the cam, (even a stock one) make sure you degree it.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:26 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 5:55 am
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Location: Brightwood, VA
Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
I agree, mill the head to increase compression(8:1 minimum-no more than 9:1). Basic valve job (a 72 should already have hardened seats), upgrade the ignition to electronic (it may already have it). Upgrade the exhaust as described and find a factory 2-bbl setup. Use the factory stuff and it will look like it came that way. See what sort of gear is in the rear axle, 3.23 or 3.55 would be great, if not already equipped. I don't see why you couldn't easily do all that for under $2k.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 6:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16793
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Welcome to the site and the world of Slant 6! Looks like a nice car.

If the car runs well, why do you want to rebuild it? You run the risk of goofing up things that are working well, both as part of the core engine, and ancillary accessories and parts. Many machine shops make mistakes, which can cost lots of time and money if you do not know how to check their work before assembly and starting.

In other words, what do you want to improve about this engine or car?

Thanks and all the best,
Lou

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:10 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2015 6:19 pm
Posts: 318
Location: Florida
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I'm usually an early proponent to propose modifying any car to the owners wishes, however a slant in a 72 Charger might be best leaving alone, and retaining as stock. That might get more attention at car shows then a hemi ( for the purists none of course were offered in 72), although you might be the last to arrive. :D

Oh, and based on popular slant lore, "freshening" usually consists of changing the filter when doing an oil change. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2018 7:35 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Northern California
Car Model: 1972 Dodge Charger Slant 6
Well, I wanted to rebuild it because im curious of how everythings doing in the motor. I changed the oil first thing when i got the car home, it was black and gnarly. And after i changed it and threw a nice new Wix racing filter on it, was almost just as dirty as before. The Charger only has 14,000 on the odo rite now. But im sure this car sat for a long while in its life, and it could really have 114000 on it. Damn reliable motor though, no leaks original starter. I replaced the drive belt, battery cables, ignition lock cylinder and both rad hoses, resealed the valve cover and have put fresh coolant in it. I could just cruise this baby until i run into an issue with the motor. All ive done soo far is just safe preventive maintenance.


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Last edited by 72'slantBbody on Fri Jan 05, 2018 8:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 8:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2018 7:35 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Northern California
Car Model: 1972 Dodge Charger Slant 6
More pics of when i got it (need to take fresh pics but its raining)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 8:14 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13063
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
If the motor is running fine right now, just leave it alone and enjoy it!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 8:22 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
So, spend your money on brakes and handling............

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 8:36 pm 
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1 BBL (New)
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Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2018 7:35 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Northern California
Car Model: 1972 Dodge Charger Slant 6
Hell yeah! I got new tires thrown on the fronts because i had old dry rotten rollers on the old american racing wheels it came with. Steers better just with that alone, manual steering, manual 4 wheel drum brake car. :D Loads of fun flexing to make her come around. I need to do the brakes for sure.There squeeky, Ive bled brakes before but never installed them. Suppose i could, just as Reed mentioned make sure my brakes and suspension are nice. Now im thinking of using the money there instead of under the hood. Mabey 4 wheel disks? Or new rack and pinion. Would also be freakin sweet though with all new factory equipment


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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I'd vote for front disks as the first upgrade... upgrade to a Stage 3 Firm Feel power steering set up for nice steering for a heavy car, replace the front suspension bushings, most likely the rubber is not in great shape if it has sat for a while, better shocks as well.

Keep an eye out for the bushings and parts for the 3 speed column shifter... new ones aren't readily available and they do wear out/break. Upgrading to a 3.23 rear gear will help (is your 3rd gen B-body equipped with a 7 1/4 or did you get lucky and get an 8 1/4" rear....?)

Upgrading the current exhaust to 2 1/4" pipe will give a bump in power, and help later if you upgrade the engine and induction.

When time to rebuild you will need to design toward a street/torque build to move the beast...as suggested for best use of money:
9:1 static compression
RV-10 cam would be good set about 4-6 degrees advanced
Porting the head is prime, even if you just use stock valves, making sure the valve springs aren't worn out...
medium 2 or small 4 barrel would be worth while and keep thing economical
recurve the distributor/upgrade to EI if this hasn't happened yet.

Being a 3 speed manual will make engine upgrades easy as you don't have kickdown linkage and settings to worry about... the bad part
is that 3 speeds aren't as common anymore for spares or replacement parts, and I would not want to hack up the floor pans on a really
nice unmodded B-body like you have to put in a floor shift 3 or 4 speed....but that mod would open up kinder rear ratios with an overdrive
transmission to motivate that big of a car...


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 12:56 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
First thing I would do is find an OD 4 speed for it. You should be able to make a Pistol Grip work on it too. :D

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 4:20 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8676
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
First thing I would do is find an OD 4 speed for it.
I would Do Front disc and suspension, OD transmission and a 3.91 or 4.10 rear.

Even with a stock motor it will accelerate, stop and handle better. It will be a totally different car.
Later engine upgrades for torque and power will only make it better.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 6:45 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 4:42 am
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Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
Awesome car! It’s great to see a nice Slant 6 powered B body like that.

Start with a good brake upgrade. Make it safe and reliable so you can enjoy it and show it off!

You can do small upgrades one at a time to minimize down time.

Tons of great information here with a great group of folks willing to help.

Welcome to the Slanted Family!! :D

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