My new Dorman exhaust manifold is here and it came with new triangle washers as well as the brass washers and slotted nuts.

Any reason not to use brass nuts on the other studs?

I like to use brass nuts on the non-end studs; they never seize.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes, That would make it too easy to take apart the manifolds in 20 years.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks, y'all. Also need to decide what to do about the secondary air pipe hole. The pump is locked up tight so not looking to replace that system. The block off plates are nearly unobtanium. It appears to be a 5/8 hole. Should I just tap it and put a bolt in it?

Just cut a piece of plate and bolt over it with the gasket

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I think that's about a 3/8 pipe thread size. You could tap it out and put a pipe plug in there (just an idea)

I've read the article Dan linked about installing the manifolds. It touts hylomar for use between the head and manifolds. This doesn't seem to be available to me locally. I could get it late Monday from Amazon.

If I wanted to go with an alternative would the same high temp copper recommended for the heat box work or would high temp red be a better choice for manifolds to head?

Are you using the good "Remflex" gasket? If yes, do not use any sealer.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I was hoping to get away with the gasket that came in the Fel-Pro head set I bought.

Pleased with how the head is looking. No I didn't use the wire brush in the background on that freshly machined surface.

This is a very unwise project to try to get away with crummy gaskets in, and the Fel-Pro manifold-to-head and manifold-to-manifold gaskets qualify as crummy. The job is a damn pain in the neck (…back…shoulders…wrists…knuckles…) and you really, really, really only wanna do it once. That is why it is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If this is the gasket still stuck to/placed over the head, that's Your problem, it's rotted through & coolant flow is bypassing the rear of the engine.

I'm not going to tell You that FelPro won't work, but unless the manny faces are pretty flat, Dan's right....get the good one. Put the prepped manifold faces on a known FLAT surface or the head, check them with feeler gauges, if the worst gap is .005" or less the FelPros will last a while. If You find .015" or more, You need to have them surfaced flat, or You're peeing in the wind...no matter how good the gasket is.
EDIT: I somehow missed the "got a new Dorman" part, I would still check them after You assemble them together, just to verify they're flat.

This made 56 year old me win out over younger, more stubborn me who lives in my mind and I ordered the good gaskets even though it will delay completion until next weekend.

Meanwhile help with this water pump. I installed a new one during resurrection and it weeped where it attaches to the block. I don't know if it was because of the combustion pressure into the cooling system, the fact I only put high tack on the block side (messily so) and didn't bother putting any on the near impossible to get to pump to plate gasket or a combination of all that.

So I pulled it to reseal it but I'm concerned that's a fool's errand. The plate has little tabs which kept it from moving. I bent those out of the way to move it around and clean out the old gasket. I'm hoping I can finagle a replacement on there without tearing it. With such limited space I'm wondering if I should just use RTV there rather than the high tack. Or should I give up and eat another $50 for yet another pump?

Are you sure it was not leaking at the weep hole underneath? There was a bad run of pumps a couple years ago. I installed 3 different ones and ended up using a good "used" pump I had on another engine. I was not a happy camper. As a side note the last 2 or 3 I have installed I have not used any sealer. Just make sure everything is clean and bolt it together. I think I used a tiny bit of grease on the gasket face. Nothing on the one behind the plate.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Is there some trick to getting the valve spring retainers loose from the keepers on the slant that's unusual? I can compress the spring to the point I can move the valve up & down but cannot get the keepers loose from the spring retainer so I can fish them out with a magnet.