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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2026 12:10 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
Posts: 323
Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
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Here it is!

Long time ago when I got bought a supersix setup including cast iron 2 bbl manifold and Carter BBD from a donor car I dint pick up the kickdown linkage. As it was Aspen it probably wont fit to my early A-body either.

So I had manifold installed and carburetor tuned, engine was at drive condition but I havent a kick down system. I had to build one!

I went to closest hardware store. I picked up a 8/10mm aluminum tube, couple of expanding wall plugs with M6 threads and couple of brass rings with 10 mm hole. Those are used at waterline copper tube joints. I also bought M6 threaded rod and 2 ball ends. Then I collected the system presented in the picture.

The left end in the part is for carburetor. Right end with bent rod is to A904 link. At first I screwed the bottom end to the 904 link. Next I measured the max movement from idle end of the 904 link to the "kickdown" position. Then I drilled to carburetor a hole (with some calculations and tests) which made similar but slightly less move from idle to WOT. You can see I have 10cm treaded area for adjustment. I used it so that when carbutetor is at WOT the 904 link touches to end.

I was ready from beginning.

Does it last long?

Yes it does. I built this system at 1999 and it is still in use. Now I have fuel injection but the throttle body shaft is at the same point as was the Carter was before.

This was and is my solution for kickdown of SUPER SIX.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp. 101.6 MPH @ 1/4 mile.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2026 7:01 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 5:55 am
Posts: 1461
Location: Brightwood, VA
Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I, 71 Plymouth Scamp
Any pictures of this on the engine?

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LEANED & MEAN
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2026 11:16 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
Posts: 323
Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
Here it is with the turbo+efi setup. The rod was exactly the same with Carter BBD. I just chose/made hole to carburetor link which makes a little shorter movement to rod as the 904 lever does. Then I adjust the rod so that 100% WOT at the throttle pull the 904 lever to the end.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp. 101.6 MPH @ 1/4 mile.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2026 12:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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That is nicely-done work, but it is not safe. See here for explanation.

(Also…how are you ventilating your crankcase? From this pic of your engine bay, it looks as if you aren't.)

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2026 9:32 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
Posts: 323
Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
I dont agree. I have double or triple return springs there to get throttle closed and it has been doing well from 1999.

However the original factory throttle return system was just a single spring which I have got broken more than once. The factory system has built so all mass was fighting against that single spring.

Crankase is wentilated to a catch can which has set underpressurized with an electric vacuum pump driven by Maxxecu engine controller by measuring the crankcase pressure continuously From an connection at the oil pan. The fumes from the electric pump outlet are routed to the tube in between the K&N element and turbo inlet. For higher power the turbo makes the most of the underpressure to the crank. The rest of time the pump does the job. Crankcase pressure is compared to the athmosphere pressure and stays below it all the time.

Image

Pictures are not optimized for the presentation on going as my hobby is not to be an influencer in the media but keep the old Dodge running and keep it fast enough for todays traffic.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp. 101.6 MPH @ 1/4 mile.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2026 10:55 am 
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I dont agree.
Maybe not, but it's still unsafe.
Quote:
I have double or triple return springs there to get throttle closed
Not responsive to the danger.
Quote:
and it has been doing well from 1999.
And your car didn't crash from the day it was built until the day you(?) installed that dual master brake cylinder, did it? But you did that anyway, right?
Quote:
However the original factory throttle return system was
…unsafe. Yup.
Quote:
Crankase is wentilated to a catch can which has set underpressurized with an electric vacuum pump
Sweet!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2026 9:59 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2003 3:52 am
Posts: 323
Location: Helsinki Finland
Car Model: 1966 2D Dart
Could you justify your position instead of just repeating the same phrases again? Do not send links to pages where is ongoing continuous discussion of opinions of nothing with a group of randomly selected people. You can do that with someone else but for me you have do better. If you can. Have you engineered something yourself? Or just copied things you could understand?

And do you think I have overengineered my car by building the brakes better than they were from factory when I have built it up to 3 times kilowatts of a slantsix? I did this because the original drum brakes - yes this have had discs and 10” rear drums for decades as well the dual master cylinder and proportional valve.

Yes I did it because I am driving in a traffic where 99,99% of cars are younger and better and safier and will still stop with less meters than my Dart. But I have tried to do the best. Some of guys have converted brakes with modern ones taken off modern cars but I have kept these because I have couple sets of small bolt circle wheels.

Sure I have thoughts when I see power adder in an old car with a single brake main cylinder and small drums blinking behind of expensive tires and wheels. But I am happy I have an Atlantic ocean between such builds and me.

_________________
1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp. 101.6 MPH @ 1/4 mile.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2026 10:14 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:47 am
Posts: 668
Location: Illinois
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Not to answer for dan...but the problem I see is the fact that the kickdown linkage had the POTENTIAL to prevent throttle from returning to rest. It has the chance to cause drag/binding/blockage of the throttle plate closing.

This is the reason that the factory units are slotted. Applying throttle would pull the linkage along with it, but the throttle could return to close even if the kickdown linkage didn't return as it should.

Dan is pretty digital when it comes to safety: it either is or isn't safe, and if a design has the potential to cause danger/damage/death then it is an unsafe design.

Personally I don't have a perspective on that linkage and am just pointing out what I see.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2026 3:30 pm 
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Location: North America
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Could you justify your position
Go read the specific post I linked, to understand the danger and how the factory addressed it starting in '68 or so.

Or don't! Totally up to you. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Quote:
Have you engineered something yourself? Or just copied things you could understand?
Yes, I've engineered stuff, but so what? Here's a more relevant question: Have you spent your (ongoing) career professionally involved with vehicle and traffic safety engineering and technical standards?

Quote:
And do you think I have overengineered my car by building the brakes better than they were from factory
No, I think you've made a wise upgrade there. Why, do you imagine, would I (or anyone else) think that was a case of "overengineering"? C'mon.

(If you want, you could decide to choose not to be all offended. I said it was nice work you did, because it is. You could focus on that if you don't care about the safety hazard of the design.)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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